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DINING OUT: Jon Helquist, who honed his skills at Chez Panisse and Oliveto, began cooking at Stellina three months ago. His philosophy—“Keep it simple and respect ingredients”—is reflected in a changing menu showcasing local meats and produce.   David Briggs

The new chef at Osteria Stellina, Jon Helquist, was waxing poetic about potatoes on Friday afternoon, but not just any potatoes. They were red fingerlings from Bolinas. 

“They were literally just out of the ground. The skins were like paper, the potatoes were like the creamiest things,” he said. He didn’t have many, he added, but he would roast and serve them and when they were gone, they’d be gone. 

Mr. Helquist, who has worked…