It’s not the cow, it’s the how.  

The phrase circulates among conservation-minded agriculturalists, and it’s one that Sasha Gennet, a scientist and strategy manager for the Nature Conservancy’s North America Sustainable Grazing Lands program, returns to often. 

The future of the Point Reyes National Seashore under the Nature Conservancy’s stewardship, she said, is built around that idea: not a Point Reyes without cattle, but a Point Reyes where cattle are used as a…