For West Marin foodies, especially those from Inverness, the closing of Saltwater Oyster Depot last summer was a painful loss. Months ago, the restaurant’s logo was replaced with a “restaurant available” sign, a sad substitute for what came before.

Given the labor shortages along the coast, where housing costs are out of reach for all but a privileged or lucky few, many wondered if a new eatery would ever open. But a fresh sign will…