Defending Beef: The Case for Sustainable Meat Production. By Nicolette Hahn Niman. 288 pages. Chelsea Green. $19.95.
Beef is the most maligned of meats. It’s so regularly demonized as an environmental harm and a health hazard that its negatives are assumed to be common knowledge.
Red meat reminds us of the stench of manure rising from Central Valley feedlots, the overuse of antibiotics and growth hormone in feed and cattle prods pushing muddy cows…