Nan Skinner: Tradition, magic and variety in Thai curry

At a recent pop-up, Nan Skinner stood in front of a gas burner, intently focused on the vegetable curry simmering in a pot. She was surrounded by her mise en place of vegetables, packages of sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, samosas, skewered chicken (with what she describes as street market spices) and raw green papaya julienned into a . . .