Yuko Kaneko and Erika Hara demonstrate the onigiri they serve at their new market stand.   Teresa Mathew

As Erika Hara rubs pink salt between her hands and begins to shape a handful of warm rice, she explains that onigiri—Japanese rice balls—are “like our lives.” Not only because she and her collaborator Yuko Kaneko make an abundance of the soft, triangular parcels every weekend, but because they are ubiquitous in her memories of growing up . . .

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