Sarah Hake’s stride is quick and assertive as she walks across Gospel Flat Farm, named for when several churches stood along this flatland stretch of Bolinas. In her hand, a colander, full of hot red peppers that she will add to a basket of others at the family farm stand, jumps with color.
Forty years ago, when Sarah and her husband, Don Murch, moved to California for her postdoc in plant genetics at Berkeley,…