No burying the lead here. Osteria Stellina, my baby, a restaurant concept built on food politics, organics, community, regional Italian cooking, love and idiocy, and a culmination of a life in the kitchen—from dishwashing and bussing in my first restaurant job at 14, to cooking at Postrio, Union Square Café, Globe, Fifth Floor, Lascaux, and 25 other restaurants on two coasts—is closing at the end of August.
It’s the smart move, I think, which is…