Peter Martinelli’s ripening apple orchard in Bolinas is an archive of diversity, with heirloom varieties that ripen at different times and with different flavors. “But everything is off cycle this year,” he said. Gravensteins, the first to ripen, ran late. Spicy Spitzenburgs, reputed to be Thomas Jefferson’s favorite apple, are being harvested now, two weeks early. Soon he’ll pick Ozark Golds, followed by Golden Delicious in early October. Each of his heirloom pippins—Cox’s Orange, Allington,…