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TEA: Scott Traffas pours pu-erh tea at the Western Gate, a new community space in Lagunitas. David Briggs

Scott Traffas carefully measured a few grams of white pu-erh tea on a small scale on Tuesday and steeped it over and over—close to a dozen times. He poured tiny, sip-sized cups of the tea, aged for a decade, so the drinker could savor it as its natural sweetness shifted with each steep. It’s a style of serving called gongfu—which translates as making tea “with great skill”—that Mr. Traffas practices at a new teahouse and…