For the past several weeks, Margarito Loza has watched cows disappear from the Spaletta Dairy by the truckload—70 head one week, 35 the next. With each departure, the future has come more sharply into focus.
“Everything is happening so fast, right in front of our eyes,” Mr. Loza said.
When the remaining 120 cows are gone, likely by the end of July, so too will be the job he has held for 34…