Just after 5 p.m. on a tepid April evening, the smell of simmering beef Bolognese and a lemony viridescent pesto drifted over the plaza at the Bolinas Community Center, where neighbors delicately balanced plates abundant with spaghetti, charred broccolini and vinegared greens on their knees. 

Like most weeknights for the past five years, anyone who found themselves in Bolinas with an empty stomach and a yen for a hot meal could count on Feed…