Enrique Hernandez Vergara won’t tell you where he found that five-pound porcini. And he won’t tell you the secret to his grandma’s turkey mole poblano, which once pleased the palate of a Mexican president. He has carried the secrets he learned in her Puebla, Mexico, kitchen all the way to Bolinas, where he’s been pleasing customers at the Coast Café for 13 years.

What made that halibut dish so special? What gave that ribeye…