On Halloween night, two dozen men arrived at Stubbs Vineyard in Chileno Valley to harvest the remaining pinot noir grapes under stadium-sized floodlights. From 6 p.m. to 2 a.m., they swarmed through the 11-acre vineyard before shipping this year’s vintage off to Sonoma to put in barrels until spring of 2025, when the wine will be bottled. 

This fall’s harvest was the latest in the season in decades, and the largest in years. Since…