Local chef Christian Caiazzo will not be able to open
an organic pizza business out of the Bovine Bakery as planned. Caiazzo
originally wanted to run the business at night, Monday through Wednesdays,
selling organic pizzas made with local ingredients. He planned to cook
the pizzas at the nearby brick oven owned by Brickmaiden Breads proprietor
Celeste Underwood.
Caiazzo opted to apply for a separate business license
from the Bovine’s, and in doing so ran into complications complying
with the stringent standards set by the Marin County Department of Environmental
Health. Caiazzo explained that he was told by officials that to be approved,
he must file a report on the stress the business would have on the building’s
septic system. The report would be costly, up to $1,000 in Caiazzo’s
estimation, but no longer necessary. On Oct. 16 he withdrew his permit
application and requested a full refund.
Septic stress
"The only stress I would be putting on the septic
system would be when I wash my hands," said Caiazzo, although he
conceded that some light dishwashing would be done as well.
Whether that is the case or not, Environmental Health
chief Phil Smith said, "We explained that he – or the Bovine
Bakery, or the landlord – should have the capacity of the septic
system evaluated to ensure that the septic system, which is common to
all the businesses in that building, would be able to handle any additional
load imposed on the wastewater disposal system."
The owner of the building, Larry Marks, said that
he also had been concerned about the impact a new business would have
on the septic system. He noted that he has never been contacted by Caiazzo
and that the expensive system (approximately $85,000) already serves
all of the businesses in the Emporium block of buildings on Route One
in Point Reyes Station, including Viewpoints, the Bovine, Point Reyes
Books, and Cabaline.
Not alone
Problems with obtaining a permit and complying with
health codes are not uncommon for restaurants in Marin County and are
especially prevalent in West Marin where centralized sewer systems are
rare. "The county has very strict rules on how restaurants are
put together," said Tom Lavy, owner of Priscilla’s Pizzeria
and Café in Inverness. Lavy explained that when he bought Priscilla’s,
Environmental Health officials enforced health codes in a more rigorous
manner than might be expected in other places. "They’re hard-nosed,"
he said, "It’s not a lot of fun." But he added, "they’re
strict with everybody. It’s not like anybody gets singled out."
Caiazzo still hopes he can set up something similar
somewhere else near Point Reyes Station. Lingering discomfort from a
recent car accident will make it hard for him to pursue anything full-time,
but he said "there’s great produce out there. I’d love
to be able to provide good organic local food somewhere in town."
In the past, he has worked at such restaurants as Postrio, Globe, and
Twenty Four in San Francisco, as well as Union Square Café in
New York City.